catch a wave

" Catch a wave and you'll be sittin' on top of the world " - Beach Boys

Since I grew up on the shore and swimming was a important part of summer activities as a child, I liken body surfing (no, never tried surfing with a board as I am much to spastic to know I could never stand erect on a surfboard long enough to even entertain riding a wave) ocean waves to competing in sheepdog trials.

As a child there was nothing grander than hitting that sand at a full run , feeling its warmth squishing though your toes as you gazed at the waves you soon would be swimming in. The ever quest to catch that "perfect" wave that picked you up and carried you all the way to the shoreline and gently slipped away from under you , leaving you full of exhilaration. Up you got and back out looking for the next best wave.
Over and over again you would see a wave and start swimming as hard as you could to the shoreline.
Hoped you timed it just right to catch that wave .
Many many times your timing was just slightly off, or the wave was not a good one to give it a go.
It either grabbed you and hurled you forward as you struggled to keep with it and stay on top,  If you stayed with it , you were thrown down on the shore and you quickly got up to your feet so it did not drag you back out and allow the next wave to crash on top of you and beat you up.
Or a wave that started out brilliant only to peter out half way and leave you bobbing or the worse case, it ferociously crashed on top of you, grinding you down to the ocean floor. There you would be rolled , spun, scraped , dragged across the bottom thinking you may drown. You were spit out on the shore, a bit disoriented. Maybe even a little embarrassed as the people standing at the shore line were certain to see you washed up .

After a moment of regrouping, heading out a little deeper into the water to discreetly remove the ten pounds of sand that were now located in the crotch of your bathing suit , you headed back out to deeper waters...because you knew in your heart of hearts that there would be another great wave to catch.

Even if you were there all day and there was not one good wave, you left feeling it was worth it and the next time the waves just may be better. Sometimes the waves may have been very rough and you were a fool to have gone out there swimming, leaving you just a bit tentative about getting out there again.

But again you did go. Once you got over the initial shock of the water and were again looking for that perfect wave, you had all but forgotten about a bad go out there.

When you catch that wave (or have a good run at a sheepdog trial) there in no better feeling. When things don't go as you had wished and the wave eludes you  or beats the crap out of you, you still need to keep heading out into deep water. For me at least quitting is not an option.
That is the only place you can take a chance on the "perfect" wave.
Standing on the shore with the water gently lapping your calves will only cheat you of the pure enjoyment of trying to master something that is not ever completely in your control.
Good waves , perfect timing and a little luck is where it's at.

When you hit the wave just right it will stay with you a lifetime , you will forever be on the quest for the next perfect wave .